The New Wine In Malibu!

Story and photos by John Blanchette

Folded into the Santa Monica Mountains and the hills above Malibu, California are more than 50 patches of vineyards producing a few hundred gallons of wine for local consumption, tended in most part by enthusiasts and gentleman farmers, including Emilio Estevez and Tony Griffin, son of Merv. But there are 10 commercial growers who have taken vino-culture very seriously and are producing world-class wines in an area more known for surfer dudes and celebrity residents than Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.I met them at the 7th Annual Malibu Wine Classic, produced by Ian Blackburn of the Los Angeles wine promotion and education organization, Learn About Wine, http://www.learnaboutwine.com/.

Yum, enjoying wine and Oysters at the 7th Annual Malibu Wine Classic

Over 60 wineries and 30 local restaurants offered tastes and drinks, including Mariel Hemingway, who was sampling her sugar-free “Blisscuits,” delicious and delicious.

The Blissful Mariel Hemingway

Tony and Tricia Griffin’s daughter Farah, Miss Malibu, was the official greeter for the thousands who attended this lovely event at the Malibu Civic Center, benefitting the child abuse center Childhelp. It was a beautiful day in the “BU.”

Farah Griffin, Miss Malibu and yours truly

Grapes were originally planted by the Spanish missionaries in the Santa Monica Mountains as far back as the 1800s primarily for making sacramental wine. But it was in 1985 that Michael McCarty of Michael’s Restaurant in Santa Monica put in the first world class wine grape stock on his Malibu property in the hills above Carbon Beach and named it The Malibu Vineyard.

Malibu wine visionary and founding father Michael McCarty

About three acres in size, they produce some nice Pinot Noirs that are featured in his restaurant. A number of top end Los Angeles restaurants often have several Malibu labels on the wine menu.His neighbor, wealthy entrepreneur and real estate developer George Rosenthal, owner of Raleigh Studios and the Sunset Marquis, was intrigued by what he saw Michael doing, so he did extensive soil sampling and in 1987 put in his first grapes creating Rosenthal –the Malibu Estate at an elevation of 1,400 feet, about four miles from the ocean off of Kanen Dume Road.
Today 30 acres of grapes are planted and the winery produces 4,000 cases from grapes grow in the Malibu-Newton Canyon AVA. Another 3,000 cases are bottled under the Surfrider label made from purchased fruit.His first vintage in 1991 of Cabernet Sauvignon earned a 91 rating from Wine Spectator. Leah Metzger, Marketing Coordinator and Wine Club Manager, led me through a tasting of the deliciously jammy wines. For $12 you can taste four wines and for $15 eight. I chose the better deal and tried them all.

In summer, Rosenthal Estates hosts a “Wine Down” on Friday evenings at the villa, the only cost the purchase of a bottle of wine. Drive in through the beautifully landscaped property, past the sculpture gardens and through the vineyards up to the rambling Spanish hacienda at the top of the hill and enjoy the sunset with fellow wine lovers. Reservations required, www.rosenthalwinedown.eventbrite.com.
Rosenthal Malibu Vineyard Tasting Room
The Coastal Commission doesn’t allow Malibu growers to make wine at the vineyards. Most grapes are trucked up to Norm Stafford’s Camarillo Custom Crush and made there. Rosenthal has its own winemaker at Orcutt Road Cellars in San Luis Obispo on the Central Coast.But many of the growers are now talking about creating their own on site wineries, including cellars and caves, to go along with the tasting rooms. It’s been a 22-year-long fight to make this happen and many hope to see it soon.

Tony and Tricia Griffin, major organizers and sponsors of the Wine Classic

Another important local grower is Ron Semler of Saddlerock Vineyards and Semler Malibu Estate, which is making a nice Syrah and has 75 acres of grapes planted, the largest of any grower in the area.Tasting rooms and larger vineyards:Malibu Wines, 31800 Mulholland Highway 818-865-0605 www.malibuwine.comMalibu Family Wines, www.malibufamilywines.com 818-889-0120Richard Hirsch at Cielo winery uses a high tech irrigation system to water its five acres, 2598 Sierra Creek Rd., 818-865-0440, www.cielofarms.com.Rosenthal, the Malibu Vineyard Tasting Room 26023 Pacific Coast Highway, next to Beau Rivage Restaurant 310-456-1392 www.rosenthalestatewines.comJim Palmer’s vineyard in Decker Canyon, www.malibu-vineyards.com 310-456-3805Malibu Vineyards, www.malibu-vineyards.comMalibu Sanity, www.malibusanity.com, 310-849-7505Malibu Solstice, 310-359-3108Hoyt Family Estate

An awesome pour at the Cielo booth

Beside the tasting rooms, Malibu wines can be tried at Barrel Malibu in Malibu Colony, 310-456-8777, winebrain@barrelmalibu.com, Cornell Tasting Room at 29975 Mulholland Highway, www.cornellwinery.com 818-735-3542 and they are widely distributed to wine shops throughout Los Angeles County.Rebekah Evans at The Malibu Chamber of Commerce is preparing a Wine Lovers Brochure to be available shortly that will provide a map and information to guide tasters along the Malibu Wine Trail, www.malibu.org.And the cult of mountain wine is spreading into the nearby hills as well, including the Rhone-style blends of the Milan Winery in Topanga Canyon, The BIG Cabernet Sauvignon from Bodega Gomez in Trancas Canyon, and the bold reds from Malibu Valley Vineyards at Triunfo & Lobo.
Los Angeles has its own little wine colony developing in the hills and Mountains above the beach community of Malibu, now the other colony by the sea.

I thank my friend John for writing about this amazing event and allowing me to blog about it.I wasn't able to attend.. I was working doing my own In Home Guided Wine Tastings .Thanks John for taking me there with your words and photos!

Cheers!

Dale Rossi

Fine Wine On Line

www.wineshopathome.com/dalerossi